Trip to the Galapagos Island

8/1/-11/84

I had read about the Galapagos for years and longed to go. At a faculty luncheon Carolyn Csongradi, a science teacher told me she was going and I said “lucky” and she said, “Why don’t you come with me?” I told David and he thought it was a great idea so I got my passport and went! My first out of country trip and the start of my traveling enthusiasm.

Wednesday, August 1, 1984

David and I had dinner with the Csongradis and then David drove us to the airport at 8: 30. I was so nervous. We had a long walk but no problem and once we got on the plane and stowed our gear my nervousness vanished. We were on an airbus which left SFO at 10:00 P.M. PDT. The attendants were pleasant but oh the plane was too hot. We didn't sleep all night. We skipped the midnight meal and the movie about a boy falling in love with a mermaid. We arrived at Atlanta at 2:30 A.M. PDT but we didn't bother to get off. It left at 3:15 and we did eat the meal of breakfast. We arrived at Miami at 5:00 A.M. PDT (8:00 ET) and waited until 1:45 ET to leave so we spent five hours in the Miami airport- it was just too hot to go outside. Note: It is now Thursday August 2, 1984. Anyway we walked through the whole airport. It is a very attractive place with some lovely waiting spots. It has a BART like train we rode out to one area that had a very elegant MacDonald’s! It also had a sun deck and lots of art work and interesting designs. We spent some time there and I wrote some postcards. We left Miami at 1:45(EDT) and arrived in Guayaquil about four hours later. It was about 18 hours since we had left SF (and no sleep all that time!) and about 5000 miles. The flight from Miami to Guayaquil was super and we had a good meal. I should also mention that the air personnel in Miami were so helpful- gave us a lot of information and a form to complain about the heat on the airbus. We really were surprised to arrive in Guayaquil - we were let off in the middle of the field and walked in. Carolyn tried to take a picture of the plane and an armed guard with machine gun said NO! The military is everywhere. The entry into the airport was not at all marked and the armed guard who checked our passports kept asking us something and we had no idea what. No one was there who spoke English and for a while I was afraid we wouldn't be admitted but finally he stamped our passports. (In Miami all the clerks spoke Spanish and English and they called for an employee for any other language they needed. Considering the number of English speaking tourists they have I'd think there would be at least one translator or at least a sign with the question!). We finally had to ask the pilot where to go and then we walked past customs and avoiding a horde of boys to carry bags and taxis shouting at us and hotel hawkers we went into a deserted airport waiting area. We were supposed to reconfirm our home trip but no one was there! We went to Tame airlines and a clerk found a customer who translated for us. She took us to the money exchanger and told us what to pay a cab to the hotel - 200 sucres (about $2.00). She said they would charge locals 100 sucres but tourists would be charged 2000 sucres (about $20) if they didn't know better. She was the only bright helpful spot in the airport. We finally found someplace to go and reconfirm our home flight. Then we hailed a cab and headed for the hotel. The driver sat in a rattan chair because he had no front seat. We sat away from the doors because we weren't sure they'd stay closed, all windows were open and we drove like hell. He drove as though there were no lanes, no stop signs, and no one else on the road. Everyone drives that way and even the pedestrians walk that way. Anyway we made it to the hotel. The lady there thought

We must be experienced travelers because we knew enough to pay him only 200 sucres! We told her we had just asked. It sure was a thrill to see such a different culture - really just what you'd expect in South America. A lot of poverty in the streets but the hotel was very elegant. Everyone was very nice in the hotel. We ate dinner in the hotel- a very nice dinner for 300 sucres each (about $3.00.) We ate Fritas con Moto- pork with pop corn that was steamed. They use a lot of corn in Ecuador. We then went to bed and slept 12 solid hours and were ready to go the next day.

Friday August 4, 1984 Guayaquil

What a marvelous fun day we spent in Guayaquil. We slept until 9:00 A.M. and recovered completely from 48 hours of no sleep. We had a rather standard breakfast. One thing we noticed you must always ask for your check or they won't bring it. We then went to change money- 91 sucres for $1000 (using traveler checks). She was friendly and helpful. We then talked to the bell captain and he gave us instructions to the Indian market. We walked the ten or so blocks there. It was so much fun to walk and really feel a part of another culture. Although everything is old the streets are clean and free of litter. There were lots of people but few who looked like tourists. No one bothered us. We noticed lots of military people everywhere and many with drawn guns. Also lots of monuments everywhere. A large city park has a huge monument in the center. The cars are old and beat up and the drivers are all crazy. They often ignore signals and always ignore pedestrians. We finally got to the market and had so much fun. The prices were low but we offered about 60% for most items. We paid $14 for two hats, I bought Ken the shoes he wanted and Carolyn bought some dresses and jewelry. Later I decided to go back and bought two dresses like Carolyn's- a wool and a cotton- both for about $14. The wool is llama! Anyway we then walked back and had lunch at the hotel. A light meal was impossible to come by. After lunch we had the hotel get us a cab to take us to the cemetery. Such a place I can't describe. They call it the White City. It is about 150 years old and spreads for miles. They have a statue of Christ on the hill. Everything is painted white and people are buried above ground. There are lots of statues and monuments. The driver walked around with us and was so pleasant. He did not speak English but we got along fine. No one else was there except the guard. Then he drove us to the market so I could buy my dresses and we walked back. He was a much saner driver but still wilder than SF drivers. He charged us 400 sucres for an hour (we paid him 500- about $5.00). We finished up our shopping in the hotel with a few trinkets (we had bought some in a little store on a side street). The exciting thing to me was how much fun we had and how confident I felt. Also it is worthwhile to feel the outsider and be at a language disadvantage. We found no problem communicating with most people- smiles and money talk wonders. We ate dinner in the Swiss restaurant in the hotel and then packed our stuff- what a pain. Lots of new arrivals tonight in the hotel which certainly changes the atmosphere. Well on to the Galapagos tomorrow. I wouldn't have given up today for any tour group.

Saturday A.M. August 4, 1984

We got up earlier than our 7:00 wake up call and soon were ready to go. Our suitcases sure were full. We had breakfast and met a woman from Atlanta traveling alone and going to the Galapagos. Karen joined us and we agreed to take her to the airport and she had arrangements already for boat to airport at the end and is sharing it with us. We checked out and met our cab friend from yesterday so we had him take us to the airport. He was pleased to see us - we paid him 300 sucres. His cab was certainly neat and clean and dent free but oh the driving. In contrast to our arrival on Thursday PM the airport was a mob scene, people everywhere. On the roof there seemed to be a large number of people just watching the arrivals and departures. We were told to be at the airport at 9:00 and the plane would leave at 10:15, then 11:00 and finally it left at 11:15. We had a cup of coffee. You stand in a "line'' and order and pay first and bring the ticket to the counter and are served. You cannot be polite about standing in line or people will cut in. When we were standing in line to board (no seat assignments) people just cut in front of us from the sides. The Europeans seemed the worse- especially a German family. We three got on and all got window seats- joy! Oh I bought ten post cards and sent all the necessary ones. (Note: three weeks later none had arrived!) I can't believe the number of children and teens on this flight. I wonder where they are all going. This plane is going to the Island of Baltra only so all are headed for the Galapagos in some capacity. No English signs on the plane and no English instructions about safety. Also no announcements in English are made in the airport. The x-ray machine at the airport is outside and looks old. I carried my film through for hand inspection but no one looked at them! We had a good lunch on the plane. I understand most of the pilots of TAME airlines are ex-fighter pilots. I only know when we landed everyone clapped I'm not sure what that meant but when I looked where we had landed and stopped we were at the end of the run way- dirt field was next. We had arrived at 12:45 so it took about 12- hours. The air field was an old U.S. field from World War II and no improvements have been made since then. We went to a shack and paid our $30 park entrance fee- American money only- no sucres. After identifying our luggage we were herded onto a rickety old bus and driven to the docks- There a panga took us to the Buccaneer. It is an old boat and full of charm- tiny cabin but not too bad. We had lunch and then were taken out in pangas to Jervis (Rabida) for a wet landing. It was more than just climbing out of the boat and wading ashore. You had to watch the waves or you got all wet- my shorts got wet. I certainly got better as the week went along. We walked around the sea lions. We saw: Galapagos Hawk, yellow warbler, white cheeked pintail, Galapagos mockingbird, Brown pelican, Flamingo, and sally-light foot crab. This is a really nice group and the California Academy of Science Tour group expected us and added us to their group. They are a nice bunch of people and very helpful. The emotional impact of being here is over whelming.

Sunday August 5, 1984

The first night sleeping on the boat was very interesting learning to sleep was a little difficult but at least the cabin was cool. Showers are a joke - so little water comes out that one can hardly get wet. Well in the morning, right after breakfast, we loaded the Panga and went to Isabela Island and anchored at Tagus Cove. We hiked up the hill to an outcropping of Volcano Darwin. From there we could see Darwin Lake and Volcanoes Wolf, Darwin, Alcedo, Sierra Negra, and Cerro Azul. Standing there and seeing everything as described in Darwin's journals was a real thrill for me. There is a question of how Darwin Lake is filled and whether there is a flow between Tagus Cove and the Lake. We took a panga ride along the edges and saw some Galapagos Penguin- the second smallest penguins We saw: small bill ground finch, Sally light-foot crabs, yellow warbler, small tree finch, medium billed ground finch, Galapagos Mockingbird, Galapagos Hawk, and blue footed booby babies and marine iguanas

In the afternoon we went to Point Espinosa (on Fernandina Island) and saw a horde of iguanas (marine). We saw lots of sea lions including babies. They have external ears, longer snouts and can sit upright. Seals (and we'll see fur seals tomorrow) have internal ears and drag themselves instead of "walking" as sea lions do. We saw penguins out of the water, lots of Sally light-foot crabs, blue-footed boobies, small ground finch, Lava heron, wandering tattler, whimbrel. We then walked along the pahoehoe flow (hot and fast). In this barren place was a cactus forest growing - brachycereus. A'aa Lava flow is slower and cooler and is softer to walk on- like gravel. We were on the youngest volcano (they are aged from east to west). There was also a "grove" of mangrove trees - there are three kinds, red, white, and black. A pond in the mist of this walk had 17 fishes in it and gets sea water. (There are 315 fishes in the archipelago.) All this lava comes from "The Summit" - or Fernandina Crater.

Monday August 6, 1984

I slept ~great last night and really know what is meant by sea legs - I feel as though I can walk normally now. They finally got our cabin fixed up - including having the rug shampooed Life is sweet! Anyway we went to James Bay (on Santiago Island) and anchored at Puerta Agas. This was an old salt collecting operation, but it proved to be too expensive. Several small yachts were there - they take tours of 8-12 people. That is too primitive and cramped for me. Privacy is enough of a problem here but I have found a nice spot on the deck and enjoy the peace and quiet and try to catch up on my notes as now. Anyway we got off and walked very close to the sea lions. They sure seem to pose for us. It was a marvelous walk out to the grotto. Judy and I saw lots of birds. It is great to have a birding buddy- Frank is pretty good too. We saw the Galapagos Dove, small ground finch, yellow warbler, warbler finch, large ground finch, Galapagos mockingbird, Semi palmated Plover, whimbrel, dark billed cuckoo, lava heron, oystercatcher, lava gull, brown noddy, fur seal, and sea lions (including tiny babies), and the Galapagos hawk. We were within one foot of some birds. We also saw lots of the finch’s nest- they are ball shaped with a side entrance.

Just as a point of interest - the food has been excellent and the service is so pleasant on the whole ship. I love this no money bit but I wonder what my bar and boutique tab will be. I never drank so much beer and coke in my life. I bought myself a real souvenir - a Buccaneer visor - my new official birding hat. I should get a few comments from that.

In the afternoon we headed for Sullivan Bay and Bartolome Island. On the way I saw Audubon's Shearwaters, storm petrels, blue footed boobies, and Swallow-tailed gulls, and masked boobies. We had a wet landing on Bartolome and went snorkeling. What an experience that was - almost religious. The color of the fishes and urchins was amazing. It was like looking at an aquarium only better - a penguin swam by. A seal lion came up to investigate and the pelicans swam around. It was truly exciting. Then we climbed to the top of Cerro Egret and what a climb and what a view. You could see many islands around us and at sunset it was spectacular- a beautiful day and a beautiful climb.

Tuesday August 7, 1984

In the AM we dropped off 40 passengers at Baltra. We were glad to see the bratty kids go and so was the staff. (Baltra is an uplifted island setting in a Grabben) The kids were referred to as the E1 Nino affect. Carolyn and I were moved from cabin 30B to cabin 10A (portside) because ours stank and the shower didn't work. We have a first class cabin - two lower berths, a large closet, two dressers, 3 chairs, and a large bathroom about 3 times the size as before. I will never skimp on ship board accommodations again. Anyway we went to the island of Santa Cruz and anchored at Academy Bay. We walked to the Darwin Research Station and visited the museum. We saw the tortoises they are keeping and raising to replace them on the proper island. There are 11 races and Isabella is the only island with more than one race. They live in the calderas and some are only 250 pounds and others are 500 pounds. We saw Old George who is about 150 years old- they count his rings on his carapace. We walked to the town of Puerto Ayora about a mile. 88% of the islands are park and the rest are private areas. P.A. is a depressing little village- dirt roads and everything is dirty and dusty- a result I am sure of the limited fresh water supply We had fun purchasing a few items including a good book on the Galapagos. We did not purchase Black Coral because although it is legal it is discouraged because it ruins the few coral reefs in this area. Also because the coral is shallow it is soft.

On our walk we saw small bill ground finch, yellow warbler, ruddy turnstone, lava gulls, medium-bill ground finch, vegetarian finch, large billed flycatcher, mockingbird, warbler finch, cactus finch, and common gallinule.

Getting off and on the boat was a real adventure. It was really rough and I wouldn't have been surprised if someone fell off. If I were to ever get sea sick tonight would be the night.

Wednesday August 8, 1984

In the AM we had a wet landing on the north side of Floreana and hiked across the point. We saw magnificent frigatebirds (which we have seen lots of from the ship), yellow warblers, blue footed booby, 3 flying flamingos and later 3 in the lake, great blue heron, common egret, whimbrel (he was singing), black neck stilt, red billed tropic birds. Then we went to Devils Crown (Islet Onslow), an eroded submerged volcanic cone and snorkeled. What an exciting experience that was. The current was rough and the scariest part was jumping off the side of the boat. I saw all kinds of fish and coral and an octopus. I just couldn't believe the colors of the fish- so vivid. I learned to dive in deep and then blow the water out of my snorkel. I am hooked and want to do more of this. I Just can't explain this experience. I had a devil of a time getting back into the boat. Good thing someone was there to pull me up!

We are on our way to Hood (Espanola) Island and will land at Point Suarez. What a rough trip this is. Carolyn is lying down. I feel fine as long as I walk or sit. It is only my head that feels bad and I only feel sick if I lay down. We saw a large school of porpoises - playing and jumping - what fun. Also we saw lots of swimming and flying waved albatrosses! What a magnificent bird! I should also mention one night we saw a large school of anchovies and that was fun.

We had a wet landing at Pt.Suazea- what a place that is. We were greeted by lots of sea lions with lots of pups. The Mockingbirds are very curious and come right up to you- they are the Hood race. We also saw red billed tropic birds, warbler finch, large cactus finch, small ground finch, blue-footed boobies, masked booby, yellow warbler, Galapagos dove, swallow-tailed gull, Galapagos Hawk, yellow-crowned night heron and northern phalarope, and waved albatross. The boobies and albatrosses were nesting and we walked'; -right next to them and they didn't seem to mind at all. It was a marvelous ending for a wonderful trip.

Thursday- Friday- Saturday August 9, 10, 11, 1984

The boat traveled from Wednesday night until Saturday morning (about 3AM) to arrive at Guayaquil. It was a very rough trip and lots of people got seasick. I tried the transderm but it made me feel worse and I couldn't read so I gave that up. I was all right as long as I sat near the back of the boat. I found it hard to sit in the dinning room. But I never felt sick anywhere but in my head. Carolyn missed a couple of meals and so did a few other people. Next time I’ll fly both ways. There was plenty to do during those two days. I caught up on my notes and we had several lectures- the notes of which follow. We had some beautiful sunsets and the last night as we neared land was so special- the sea was calmer and we stood at the rail and watched the city lights and talked. The moon was full and it was so peaceful. It was fun to watch the pilot boat come and see the harbor pilot come on board- he just hopped right in. We had a tour of the bridge and learned a little of the operation which was fun. In port it looks different than I expected- the Jungle growth came right up to the bank on one side- we docked on the other and had a dry landing. Karen's little bus came for us and again the driver drove like hell. I just can't believe the driving and no accidents. It was nice to have the young man from Gordon Tours take us to the airport and guide us through all the "red tape". The waiting area for those of us leaving Ecuador was much nicer than the other area. It was clean and comfortable and had several nice little shops. The flight home was long but pleasant. The planes were comfortable and the meals pleasant. It only took us 5 minutes to go through customs in Miami. Good thing we had extra time because the flight was an hour late leaving Guayaquil but we had almost two hours originally to wait. We caught a cab at SFO and went to Carolyn's to greet our husbands and then headed home for a good clean bath and bed. What a happy adventure this was. Everything went so well and even the problems all were easily resolved. I feel capable of handling traveling now. This trip gave me a lot of confidence.